Pushrods and rocker arms

On a small block Ford, getting the right pushrod length is critical to engine longevity. since I changed the heads, I needed to re-check pushrod length.  I neglected to take pictures of a lot of the process but will try to explain it properly without them. I began by disassembling one of the hydraulic lifters and placing washers inside to simulate the lifter being in the pumped up position while the engine was running. Then I cut a stock pushrod in half, drilled and tapped it for a small threaded rod and made it's length adjustable. I could have purchased an adjustable pushrod but then I would have had to order it, pay $35 and wait several weeks for it to arrive.

Adjustable pushrod

I took a Sharpie and made the top of the valve stem black, then installed the pushrod and the roller rockers according to the manufacturers instructions. After turning the engine over four full rotations, a line would be worn in the Sharpie ink. By adjusting the length of the pushrod and repeating the process, I could determine what length I needed to get the rocker arm pushing down directly in the middle of the valve stem. Once I had that, I could measure the pushrod and order the length I needed.

I ordered these Manley 6.5" pushrods from Kens Kustom Machine

And installed all the pushrods and rockers per Comp Cams instructions.

Porting the GT40 Intake

The GT40 intake manifold was available on 5.0 powered Ford Explorers, and it didn't take long for Mustang guys to figure out that it makes more power than the Mustang intake. It was a cheap improvement for my stock Mustang 5.0 but with the new heads and cam, it wasn't enough. I looked at some aftermarket intake manifolds and they are all so expensive. Then I stumbled upon a guy who claims to port GT40 intakes to make the same or more power than aftermarket intakes, with dozens of dyno graphs to prove it. His method of porting is written up here: How to port GT40 intake

I followed the directions and here are some pictures:

I took an intake gasket and glued it onto a new head

Then I used a die grinder to open the gasket up to match the port shape and size

I transfered the shape to the intake manifold

And opened it up with the die grinder. I did a bunch more smoothing out of the port after this picture was taken

Before

After

Bushings and balljoints

With the engine out, it was easier to replace the suspension bushings and ball joints.

The old upper control arm bushings were rubber and falling apart

The new ones are polyurethane and considerably harder, which should be better for handling

 

 

The old rubber lower control arm bushing

And the new one

Here is the lower control arm in place. There is a single shaft that goes through both ends of the inside lower control arm and the shaft on each side of the car was seized in place. It took a lot of heat and hammering to get them out. On the original Jag, the shaft slid in from the engine side but I reversed that so I can remove the lower control arm with the engine still in.

The old ball joint is on the right and it was adjusted by changing shims. The ball is actually in very good shape but I replaced them with a sealed until like the one on the left, which weighs less, too.